apocryphal.kitchen

breakfast

Breakfast Pizza with Cheese Sauce

Permalink
Breakfast Pizza with Cheese Sauce
Prep
25 min
Cook
25 min
Yield
One 12-inch pizza, 4 servings

The second time a guest ordered the same breakfast, I stopped calling it a whim. She wanted eggs, sharp cheese, and something she could carry to the pool deck without hunting for a fork. I run pastry on a ship I will not name, and sugar is a tool I put down at dawn. This pizza is what I built for the night bakers who come off shift already tired of buttercream.

Cheese sauce is the whole argument. Tomato fights the eggs. A béchamel loaded with cheddar stays where you put it and tastes like the reason someone came back. I got the thickness wrong for a week: too loose and it wept onto the plate; too stiff and the center of the crust steamed instead of baking. The version that stuck is the one people ordered again.

I still make it when I see the same face at the rail two mornings running. Bacon, scallion, black pepper. Nothing cute. Breakfast should remember you.

Ingredients

  • 1 lbpizza dough, brought to room temperature
  • 1 tbspolive oil, plus more for the pan
  • 4 slicesthick-cut bacon
  • 2 tbspunsalted butter
  • 2 tbspall-purpose flour
  • 1 cupwhole milk
  • 4 ozsharp cheddar, grated
  • 2 ozGruyère, grated
  • 1/2 tspkosher salt, divided
  • 1/4 tspfreshly ground black pepper, plus more for the eggs
  • 1 pinchfreshly grated nutmeg
  • 4large eggs
  • 2scallions, thinly sliced

Method

  1. Heat the oven to 475°F (245°C) with a baking sheet or pizza stone on the middle rack.
  2. Cook the bacon in a skillet over medium heat until crisp. Drain on a paper towel, then crumble it.
  3. Melt the butter in a small saucepan over medium heat. Whisk in the flour and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.
  4. Whisk in the milk a little at a time. Simmer, stirring often, until the sauce is thick enough to coat a spoon, 3 to 4 minutes.
  5. Take the pan off the heat. Stir in the cheddar, Gruyère, 1/4 teaspoon salt, the pepper, and nutmeg until smooth. The sauce should spread, not pour.
  6. Oil a 12-inch pan or a sheet of parchment. Stretch the dough into a 12-inch round and dock the center lightly with a fork.
  7. Spread the cheese sauce over the dough, leaving a narrow rim. Scatter the bacon and most of the scallions on top.
  8. Make four shallow wells in the sauce and crack an egg into each. Season the eggs with the remaining salt and a little pepper.
  9. Bake 12 to 16 minutes, until the crust is browned, the egg whites are set, and the center of each egg reaches 160°F (71°C).
  10. Rest 3 minutes. Scatter the remaining scallions over the top, then slice.

It keeps a day in the refrigerator, wrapped, and reheats in a hot oven better than it does in a microwave. I put a sharp green salad beside it in port and cut fruit when we are not. Hot sauce stays on the side. People are particular, and I like to remember which ones.