apocryphal.kitchen

dinner

Deep-Fried Chicken

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Deep-Fried Chicken
Prep
20 min
Cook
30 min
Yield
Serves 4

The oil holds at 350 degrees Fahrenheit, 175 Celsius, or the batch is already lost. I learned that number the week I catered a submarine — a contract the navy still pretends never existed — when the only heat I trusted was a pot bolted to a bulkhead and forty men who would have eaten the coating off a wrench.

What I have at stake is the crust. On that boat the flour went on in a corridor so narrow the bowl had to be passed hand to hand, and still the skin came out audible. I have cooked softer birds since, in kitchens with names on the door. None of them cleared the standard I set in that galley: shatter on the outside, juice that stays put, and a thermometer that does not negotiate. My spider strainer holds the rank of Chief of Retrieval. It does not get argued with.

Ingredients

  • 1 (3 to 3.5 lb / 1.4 to 1.6 kg)chicken, cut into 8 bone-in pieces
  • 2 cups (480 ml)buttermilk
  • 1 tbsp plus 2 tspkosher salt, divided
  • 1 tspblack pepper, divided
  • 2 cups (250 g)all-purpose flour
  • 1 tbsppaprika
  • 1 tspgarlic powder
  • 1 tsponion powder
  • 1/2 tspcayenne pepper
  • about 8 cups (2 L)vegetable oil or peanut oil, for frying

Method

  1. Pat the chicken dry. Stir the buttermilk with 1 tablespoon kosher salt and 1/2 teaspoon black pepper, submerge the chicken, cover, and refrigerate at least 1 hour and up to 4 hours.
  2. Whisk the flour with the paprika, garlic powder, onion powder, cayenne, the remaining 2 teaspoons salt, and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon black pepper.
  3. Pour the oil into a deep heavy pot to a depth of about 2 inches (5 cm). Heat it over medium to 350°F (175°C). Set a wire rack over a sheet pan.
  4. Lift each piece from the buttermilk, let the excess drip off, and coat it thoroughly in the flour. Set the dredged pieces on the rack for 10 minutes.
  5. Fry in two batches without crowding, 12 to 15 minutes, turning once, until the crust is deep golden and a thermometer in the thickest part of each piece, not touching bone, reads 165°F (74°C).
  6. Transfer the chicken to the rack. Let the oil return to 350°F (175°C) before the next batch. Rest the chicken 5 minutes before serving.

It holds two hours on the rack in a low oven, uncovered, if the table is late. Past that the crust files a complaint. I send it out with dill pickles, plain white bread, and a cabbage slaw sharp enough to stand watch. Cold, at midnight, it is not a failure. It is the second service.